Delectable kebabs, scented biryani, and airy, cloud-like desserts.
The northern Indian city of Lucknow has consistently been a food lovers' paradise, with residents and visitors alike praising its remarkable cuisine.
Worldwide Recognition
In a recent announcement, Unesco honored it as a City of Gastronomy within its Creative Cities Network – adding it to a exclusive list of international urban centers and kindling hopes that it will highlight Lucknow's exceptional food. With this title, it becomes part of a global network of more than four hundred cities across more than 100 countries committed to promoting "creativity as a catalyst of city development that is sustainable".
The accolade "demonstrates its deep-rooted food heritage and lively culinary scene," as noted by a official from Unesco's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is just the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was chosen in 2019 – to earn a spot in this highly sought-after list of 70 global destinations internationally.
A Metropolis Shaped by Cuisine
The accolade for this time-honored city comes as little surprise to its locals or avid food lovers. Many share the opinion that it is "an honor long overdue".
With the UNESCO designation, this beloved, chaotic, and vibrant city – the capital of India's biggest state – is at last in the global gaze for what has perennially defined its heart: an unparalleled passion for food.
"'What's for dinner, how will it be cooked' is a continued conversation from morning until going to bed in most homes," states a local cultural expert. "And you are actually assessed by the standard of food that emerges from your kitchen."
An Imperial Food Tradition
The City of Nawabs – as it's popularly called after its 18th and 19th Century opulent Muslim rulers – is noted for its tender kebabs and a unique take on biryani that were conceived, evolved, and taken to exquisite levels in their royal kitchens.
These royal kitchens were centers of food experimentation, blending Iranian and local Indian styles to create what became known as the culinary tradition of Awadh.
It was in this era that Lucknow's renowned kebabs were developed. Legend has it that the mutton galouti was invented to cater to an ageing nawab who had lost his teeth. His cooks processed the meat with papaya, kesar, and spices and made it so fine that it needed no chewing.
But perhaps the biggest contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a gentle, leisurely heat, with the container's cover securely sealed with a flour paste.
Beyond Kebabs and Biryani
Apart from the obvious kebabs and biryani, the cooks also created a vast array of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a decadent bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is far more than kebabs and biryani – the region is also a dream for plant-based eaters.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine not only showcases seasonal produce but also gives the city its meticulously prepared Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat – tangy fried snacks.
Iconic Stalls and Historic Shops
Almost on countless corners, there are tiny kiosks and carts – little-known delights that are wildly popular with the locals.
In the heart of the city of Hazratganj, huge crowds start milling around from early morning at a legendary tea stall to get a piping hot cup of spiced tea with milk, served in earthenware cups, along with pillowy soft buns slathered with hand-churned white butter.
For breakfast, one can head to a no-frills joint located in the historic quarter of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was set up, the place is still much sought-after for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Preserving Tradition for the Future
The city also presents unique treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a airy dessert savored in the winter. The method of making it is intricate and complicated. The artisan beats the milk and then sets it out at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its unique airy feel.
On crisp mornings, street vendors can be seen in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. Many however express concern that their children do not want to master the skill.
A well-known culinary expert from Lucknow has often said that the city's immense food legacy places it among the best of the Indian street food experience. The real value from the UNESCO recognition, however, will be realized only if Lucknow can now generate interest about its under-the-radar eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow comes with a history – shaped by generational food businesses, from humble street carts to lively restaurants, and closely held family recipes.
The global recognition, it is believed, will inspire more people around the world to learn these tales and travel to the city to savour the gastronomic treasures of Lucknow.
